10 features of a quality suit

10 features of a quality suit

1. The material

Any fabric can be characterized with 4 qualities: its composition, the density of the weave, its weight and its abrasion resistance. The cloth of the quality suit is soft to the touch and does not contain polyester; it can only contain cotton, wool (maybe mohair) and cashmere. The latter is an excellent material, but very delicate. Weaving density is usually denoted by a number indicating how many threads are in 1 cm2. For a high-quality material 100 (marked 100s) is the minimum requirement. The third number is the mass of the fabric. It is not advisable to choose fabrics above 300 grams for summer clothes and below 300 for all-season suits. The material is considered to be cold wear above 370-380 grams.

2. Tailoring

The tailoring of the suit is already telling in itself. Quality pieces have a well-visible fall and hold. Of course, in the case of a made-to-measure piece, this is adapted to the shape of the owner, highlighting its strengths and partially obscuring the more problematic areas. At the same time, there are vast differences between the confectionery pieces, and this can already be seen on a mannequin. It is essential for the suit to have a beautiful fall and a curve. The time it was created, and fashion also reveals a lot about tailoring. A suit crafted at the turn of the century or in the 1930s is more likely to be worn today, compared to the typically oversized jackets of the ’80s or ’90s.

3. Stitching

Some suits are hand-stitched on the front side. Nowadays, companies try to imitate this by machine, but it is much less delicate. The uniformity of the stitching shows the quality of the suit which is most noticeable around buttonholes when the buttonhole is hand-made.

4. The cuff

There are two options; cuffs can either be “working cuffs” when the buttons could be unbuttoned, or sewed. Working cuffs is not an essential requirement, you can have a quality suit without those, but they are a good sign of a better jacket. Ready-made suits rarely have working cuffs. If you opt for working cuffs, please note that the most sophisticated look requires you to unbutton the last or the last two buttons, highlighting the jacket’s quality. Occasionally, buttons are sewn with contrasting colours. The details of the cuff is an excellent indicator of the quality of the suit – even if the finger cannot be touched.

5. Accuracy of joints

For a patterned material (striped, plaid), the joints should be perfect, the stripes meeting stripes, just as checked patterns at all the joining points (pockets, shoulders, front and back side, etc.), the material is perfectly symmetrical and the patterns are in-line.

6. Lining

Yes, the inside of the suit is also telling. The material of the lining – even for semi-canvased suits – highlights the jacket’s quality. The fine, silk lining, the inner pockets all reveal it’s class.

7. Vents

Most quality suits have side vents or single vents. In both cases, it offers the jacket a more beautiful fall and slims the figure.

8. Lapel

The lapel gives the jacket a fashionable or old-fashioned look, so it’s elaborate. The shape, hardness and elasticity of the lapel are also different. The width, location, shape, cut, the quality of the buttonhole on the lapel are all telling. There are three main collar types: shawl, notch and peak lapel. Previously harder lapels were in fashion, and they seem to have their renaissance and return to style.

Nowadays, softer lighter lapels are more typical. It is interesting to see if there are hand-sewn items regularly decorating sports jackets. It is worth observing the details: how if the cut is high or deep, are the spacing of the buttonholes proportional to the size of the jacket and the size of the collar.

9. Reserve

Reserve is the extra fabric your suit has in case you need to change its size. No question, you need some reserve for your suit. The tailor-made piece surely has plenty of reserve cloth designed to your exact shape. This lets you adjust the size if necessary. For confectionery pieces, the reserve usually has much less cloth, as manufacturers are trying to save on this, although they all need to have some due to the cutting technique. For low-quality suits, this is marginal, at higher quality, this is usually slightly more, but for most of the time, it’s only in the pants. For tailor-made suits, the tailor takes the extra fabric needed into account and builds in for a possible size change later.

10. Buttons

Quality suits have quality buttons. What does it mean? The buttons are of the same colour and size, with a beautiful even surface, matt or silk, not obtrusive (except for the club jacket with gilded buttons). The buttons are evenly spaced apart, which is particularly visible on the cuff. On the more elegant pieces, the buttons on the cuff fit together (they can hang on each other) or have a very narrow gap in-between.

What do you need for a man’s wardrobe?

What do you need for a man’s wardrobe?

How to assemble your wardrobe in such a way that it is of useful and necessary pieces? What clothes does a modern man’s wardrobe include?

So what kind of clothes do men of high standard need, who want to look good and dress in different ways based on occasion and weather? The good news is that you don’t need an infinite amount of clothing. We can dress up in a range of 20 dresses elegantly and with lots of variations, even for a decade.

There’s no need for a lot of clothes, but we need to pick the pieces consciously!

Each elegant wardrobe starts with a basic suit, typically navy or grey. We recommend blue. However, it should not be black, since it’s only appropriate for funerals.

In addition to our basic suit, we can choose a complementary dress that is greyish with blue and vice versa.

It is also necessary to have a few sports jackets, 2-3 pieces of different thickness for less formal events; so we might pick a sheer material for hot weather, a thicker warmer cloth for winter. These could be somewhat patterned, typically checked, which never goes out of style.

Sports jackets also require trousers, approximately 2-4 pieces. It is advisable to select them so that they match with the sports jackets. The collection may be light shades of beige (beige, off-white, pale grey) or slightly brighter in shades of blue or brown, but the more courageous might look out for burgundy, yellow, green colours as well.

At last, appropriately sized shirts are needed. We can add more variety to our look with a tailor-made shirt.

With shirts, we need a slightly wider range, to sport a different look at official events and everyday life. Be sure to have some light blue pieces next to the basic two white shirts; you can wear these with a suit or sports jackets. All in all, with ten shirts you can have a spot-on look every day over the long run.

There is only one piece left from the elegant man’s wardrobe: a tailor-made tuxedo that is quintessential for the “black-tie” events.

If all the pieces of our wardrobe are tailor-made, then we can be sure to make an exceptionally well-dressed impression that is not available with garment clothing.