10 features of a quality suit

10 features of a quality suit

1. The material

Any fabric can be characterized with 4 qualities: its composition, the density of the weave, its weight and its abrasion resistance. The cloth of the quality suit is soft to the touch and does not contain polyester; it can only contain cotton, wool (maybe mohair) and cashmere. The latter is an excellent material, but very delicate. Weaving density is usually denoted by a number indicating how many threads are in 1 cm2. For a high-quality material 100 (marked 100s) is the minimum requirement. The third number is the mass of the fabric. It is not advisable to choose fabrics above 300 grams for summer clothes and below 300 for all-season suits. The material is considered to be cold wear above 370-380 grams.

2. Tailoring

The tailoring of the suit is already telling in itself. Quality pieces have a well-visible fall and hold. Of course, in the case of a made-to-measure piece, this is adapted to the shape of the owner, highlighting its strengths and partially obscuring the more problematic areas. At the same time, there are vast differences between the confectionery pieces, and this can already be seen on a mannequin. It is essential for the suit to have a beautiful fall and a curve. The time it was created, and fashion also reveals a lot about tailoring. A suit crafted at the turn of the century or in the 1930s is more likely to be worn today, compared to the typically oversized jackets of the ’80s or ’90s.

3. Stitching

Some suits are hand-stitched on the front side. Nowadays, companies try to imitate this by machine, but it is much less delicate. The uniformity of the stitching shows the quality of the suit which is most noticeable around buttonholes when the buttonhole is hand-made.

4. The cuff

There are two options; cuffs can either be “working cuffs” when the buttons could be unbuttoned, or sewed. Working cuffs is not an essential requirement, you can have a quality suit without those, but they are a good sign of a better jacket. Ready-made suits rarely have working cuffs. If you opt for working cuffs, please note that the most sophisticated look requires you to unbutton the last or the last two buttons, highlighting the jacket’s quality. Occasionally, buttons are sewn with contrasting colours. The details of the cuff is an excellent indicator of the quality of the suit – even if the finger cannot be touched.

5. Accuracy of joints

For a patterned material (striped, plaid), the joints should be perfect, the stripes meeting stripes, just as checked patterns at all the joining points (pockets, shoulders, front and back side, etc.), the material is perfectly symmetrical and the patterns are in-line.

6. Lining

Yes, the inside of the suit is also telling. The material of the lining – even for semi-canvased suits – highlights the jacket’s quality. The fine, silk lining, the inner pockets all reveal it’s class.

7. Vents

Most quality suits have side vents or single vents. In both cases, it offers the jacket a more beautiful fall and slims the figure.

8. Lapel

The lapel gives the jacket a fashionable or old-fashioned look, so it’s elaborate. The shape, hardness and elasticity of the lapel are also different. The width, location, shape, cut, the quality of the buttonhole on the lapel are all telling. There are three main collar types: shawl, notch and peak lapel. Previously harder lapels were in fashion, and they seem to have their renaissance and return to style.

Nowadays, softer lighter lapels are more typical. It is interesting to see if there are hand-sewn items regularly decorating sports jackets. It is worth observing the details: how if the cut is high or deep, are the spacing of the buttonholes proportional to the size of the jacket and the size of the collar.

9. Reserve

Reserve is the extra fabric your suit has in case you need to change its size. No question, you need some reserve for your suit. The tailor-made piece surely has plenty of reserve cloth designed to your exact shape. This lets you adjust the size if necessary. For confectionery pieces, the reserve usually has much less cloth, as manufacturers are trying to save on this, although they all need to have some due to the cutting technique. For low-quality suits, this is marginal, at higher quality, this is usually slightly more, but for most of the time, it’s only in the pants. For tailor-made suits, the tailor takes the extra fabric needed into account and builds in for a possible size change later.

10. Buttons

Quality suits have quality buttons. What does it mean? The buttons are of the same colour and size, with a beautiful even surface, matt or silk, not obtrusive (except for the club jacket with gilded buttons). The buttons are evenly spaced apart, which is particularly visible on the cuff. On the more elegant pieces, the buttons on the cuff fit together (they can hang on each other) or have a very narrow gap in-between.

How to pick a tailor?

How to pick a tailor?

1. First impression!

Yes, that’s the most important. The first impression is either good or bad. Trust your gut feeling.

2. Check his works!

A tailor’s previous works tell a lot. Keep in mind that a tailor does not work on fashion models, and his customers do not necessarily own a perfect shape. It is the task of the tailor to ensure the best possible appearance for its customers.

At the same time, references are vital. The more styles a tailor can create, the wider the area he has previously gained experience and probably the more prepared he/she is. If every suit looks “the same”, it probably means one thing: that’s the only thing he’s good at. A qualified tailor knows how to create a variety of garments with different designs and technologies.

Mr Gangel made me a classic, full canvas suit. I am entirely delighted with the result; I will return in the future!

Daniel Gajzer

3. Any references?

A good tailor has references as well as returning customers that also means experience, which is very important. So if your tailor has lots of referrals, it is a good indicator that you are in the right place.

4. Range of materials

At first, maybe it is surprising, but the better a tailor, the more bravely he works with quality materials. A good tailor is not scared of expensive fabrics since he doesn’t worry about ruining it and then having to reorder the fabric and pay for that himself. The experienced hands of a good tailor work confidently with the most special clothes as well.

 

5. Quality of the details!

The devil’s in the details, especially for a suit. Tiny little details make a suit special, which are only visible when watched carefully. What are these? The quality of the hand sewing, the regularity of hand-stitching, the uniformity of the dressings, the consistency of the seams, etc.)

 

6. Length of deadline

The deadline is informative. Creating a tailor-made suit takes between 30-60 hours based on technology. You cannot do produce a high-quality piece in a shorter time. Anyone promising you a suit in a few days time, you can’t expect a high-class end result.

At the same time, it shouldn’t take half a year to get your suit. That indicates capacity problems.

In our practice, we consider it vital to have the right capacity and be able to provide our customers with the most flexibility, especially at the first try-on. Making a suit – depending on the frequency of the try-ons – typically ranges from 4 to 10 weeks. In exceptional cases, you can have your suit in a much shorter time (up to 2 weeks) at an additional cost.

Why order a tailor-made suit?

Why order a tailor-made suit?

In short: because it is elegant more comfortable and absolutely worth it!

In more detail: because you are not a confection size – no one is. Tailor-made clothes offer a massive difference in quality, not in price.

What’s wrong with ready-made suits?

There is no perfect body structure – none of us is entirely symmetric, and our body parts are not the same. All of these cannot be taken into account when designing a ready-made suit. The goal is to make it an acceptable fit for as many people as possible, which is logical.

But in foreign countries, these ready-made pieces could be customised often in the shop with a local tailor. In Hungary, this is equivalent to sewing the length of the trousers – but this is just the smallest task. That’s not customisation at all.

Furthermore, there is often a shortage of sizes, and the knowledge of clothing sellers usually does not meet the desired level: they lack basic knowledge and are simply not helpful.

Due to the lack of sizes, they sell customers the wrong size, resulting in many men feeling uncomfortable in their suit. The majority of Hungarian men are simply wearing the wrong size, usually at least one or two sizes bigger.

What makes tailor-made suits different??

They are not only elegant but also comfortable – easy to move in. Simply a different league. Besides, you can find the most appropriate version from an infinite number of options, not from a very narrow range the local store offers. You can customise the perfect fit: the fabric, the style and the cut. You don’t have to settle for less.

Also, you have the advice of a trained tailor will offering you the fit that is beneficial and not what is in stock.

What makes it more elegant?

While the ready-made pieces highlight our defects, the tailor-made suit covers those. They provide a distinct look no other clothing can since they fit your shape perfectly. Due to the exact size, the suit does not stretch and wrinkles less offering a steady look.

Individual wishes can be taken into account, with individual solutions and tiny tricks, that can give the owner an impeccable look. In a perfectly-sized suit, you will look much slimmer and surely can deny a few pounds if needed.

Why is it more convenient?

Because it is tailored to your body, every detail is cut to fit your body according to your needs and expectations. The shoulder, the armpit of the trousers and the length of the pants are all made exclusively for your shape, so wearing a suit of the exact size of the owner is always comfortable, yet uncomfortable to anyone else.

Is it worth it? Absolutely!

On average tailor-made suits are not more expensive than ready-made ones you find in shops. Indeed! If we compare a ready-made piece created of a fabric of the same quality, with similar technology we find that those are often more expensive. How is that possible? There is a straightforward reason for this: when buying a tailor-made suit you only pay for two things: the fabric and the work of the tailor.

Conversely, in the case of an in-store suit, the cost of transportation and storage (sometimes from another continent), the wholesaler’s margin, the rent of the shop, the seller’s salary, and many other costs need to be included. Add all these, and the price for a ready-made suit exceeds a tailor-made one.

That’s why you can get a higher quality product at a lower price!

Are there further benefits?

There are several other advantages like being modifiable, more durable, repairable, more extended warranty, etc.

How to pick a suit?

How to pick a suit?

For most men, buying or ordering clothing is not a routine task, which is why we have collected some of the factors that you should consider before picking a suit.

Before buying a suit, consider the following:

  1. How often do you plan to wear it?
  2. On what occasions do you plan to wear your suit (and what sort of drain that means)??
  3. Which season?
  4. How long would you like to use the suit??
  5. Does your figure change quite often?
  6. What bodytype do you have?
  7. What colour to choose?
  8. How experienced are you at wearing suits?

1. How often do you plant to wear your suit?

That is the primary consideration. A suit worn almost every day requires different specifications (although, as a general rule, if you wear a suit, then let it rest for a day) then one worn only 1-2 times a year. It also important if you want to wear it in only a specific part of the year (winter, summer) or all seasons.

These are are all worth to consider and discuss with the tailor. For an everyday suit, he will suggest fabrics that have higher wear resistance and less sensitive, while for suits worn in the case of a less-woven suit, the more specific materials can serve the client in the long run. Similarly, we recommend another lining for a light summer suit like a four-season piece.

2. For what occasions would you like to wear?

Some materials get worn fast if you do heavy movement in it (dance) — especially the inner-thigh area of the trousers, where the fabrics rub as you move. Generally, materials containing cashmere are less durable.

On the other hand, the occasion can determine the colour and for some cases, the cut as well.

3. In what season do you want to wear the suit?

There may be a considerable difference in weight between individual fabrics. Some are designed for summer, others for winter and there are 4-season fabrics as well. The latter is a good fit for almost all year, except those hot summer days when they are way too warm.
But if you rarely wear a suit, do not choose a particularly light, summer material, because during winter you are going to freeze in those. On the other hand, thicker winter fabrics might make you sweat even on an average spring day.

4. How long do you want to use the suit?

For some a single suit is enough for a lifetime and are for a handful of occasions only – graduation, wedding, funeral. We believe men should dress elegant way more often.

If you rarely wear a suit, then it is not worth going for the latest fashion – but pick a style that preserves its elegance for decades. Such is a single-breasted 2-buttoned or the double-breasted suit with 6-buttons. If tailor-made you can sport an elegant look forever.

5. How much your figure changes?

If your body weight changes 5-10% regularly, do not go with the ultra-tight slim-fit style of the latest fashion, while you might be unable to button it in just a few months. One day it will be too tight a few months later too loose. Since you don’t want to rush to your tailor every other week, you’d instead choose a semi-slim cut with some room manoeuvring.

At the same time, suits made with glued technology are easier to make while entirely handmade and stitched pieces which do not require glueing are much more complicated. If your shape is very volatile (still growing or is expected to change over 5-10 pounds), then consult your tailor and design a suit in a way so it can be easily modified.

6. What body type do you have?

Your body type determines the cut fits you best. We all have a unique shape, and it’s very difficult to offer general advice, but there are only two basic cut types: single-breasted and double-breasted suits.

Since the double-breasted suit should be worn buttoned almost all the time, it is best for thin men while it visually strengthens the tummy area. For tall and slim men, both single-breasted and double-breasted suits could be an option.

Button placement also changes a lot in the shape of a suit. Suits with more buttons or higher close are more advantageous for smaller men because those make them look taller whereas tall gentlemen should usually go for fewer buttons. Of course, these are just generalities, and we are happy to advise you in person what is most beneficial to you.

7. What colour to choose?

Different colours dominate in business and private occasions. While in the business environment shades of grey and blue tones are preferred, black dominates formal events. It is essential to understand that black is not a business colour. However, if you are thinking of a single suit, we may suggest a dark grey or deep blue suit that will do correctly for both business and casual (wedding, funeral) events.

What do you need for a man’s wardrobe?

What do you need for a man’s wardrobe?

How to assemble your wardrobe in such a way that it is of useful and necessary pieces? What clothes does a modern man’s wardrobe include?

So what kind of clothes do men of high standard need, who want to look good and dress in different ways based on occasion and weather? The good news is that you don’t need an infinite amount of clothing. We can dress up in a range of 20 dresses elegantly and with lots of variations, even for a decade.

There’s no need for a lot of clothes, but we need to pick the pieces consciously!

Each elegant wardrobe starts with a basic suit, typically navy or grey. We recommend blue. However, it should not be black, since it’s only appropriate for funerals.

In addition to our basic suit, we can choose a complementary dress that is greyish with blue and vice versa.

It is also necessary to have a few sports jackets, 2-3 pieces of different thickness for less formal events; so we might pick a sheer material for hot weather, a thicker warmer cloth for winter. These could be somewhat patterned, typically checked, which never goes out of style.

Sports jackets also require trousers, approximately 2-4 pieces. It is advisable to select them so that they match with the sports jackets. The collection may be light shades of beige (beige, off-white, pale grey) or slightly brighter in shades of blue or brown, but the more courageous might look out for burgundy, yellow, green colours as well.

At last, appropriately sized shirts are needed. We can add more variety to our look with a tailor-made shirt.

With shirts, we need a slightly wider range, to sport a different look at official events and everyday life. Be sure to have some light blue pieces next to the basic two white shirts; you can wear these with a suit or sports jackets. All in all, with ten shirts you can have a spot-on look every day over the long run.

There is only one piece left from the elegant man’s wardrobe: a tailor-made tuxedo that is quintessential for the “black-tie” events.

If all the pieces of our wardrobe are tailor-made, then we can be sure to make an exceptionally well-dressed impression that is not available with garment clothing.